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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.